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  #11  
Old 10-04-2011, 09:30 PM
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Final assembly with everything in place. Can you believe the overall length is within a 1/4" of the 4l80E with all these custom parts? What are the odds of that happening.

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...5e79e4a6a660b6

Now it's just a matter of fine tuning the clutch and brake pedals, wiring up the reverse light, reverse lockout, brake light pressure switch, turn signals, hazard, starter and ignition wires, hi beam switch, etc. Basically everything that was connected to the factory steering column has to be rewired.

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...5e79e4a6a660b6

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New propshaft safety loop.

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...5e79e4a6a660b6

If you are interested in doing a T-56 manual conversion, contact George at Rockland Standard Gear at the phone number above and he'll build you a quality transmission.
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2011, 10:59 PM
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http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...5e79e4a6a660b6

Master cylinders installed into the Tilton aluminum pedal box along with brake bias bar. Brake and clutch lines plumbed including brake light pressure switch. Need to reorganize the wires! They didn't look like this before the swap!
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2011, 08:32 PM
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I had a chance to drive the truck with the new transmission today and my initial feels are slightly mixed at this point.

The McLeod RXT twin disc clutch pedal feel is closer to an OEM clutch than a race clutch. The lightweight 153 tooth flywheel is a bit trickier off the line, but the engine keeps the revs up better between shifts and seems more responsive. The gear spread seems perfect and turbo lag is minimal. I haven't given it full throttle yet since I'm in break in mode, but it pulls super strong.

I'm not super thrilled on this iteration of the shifter as it makes the shifts feel notchy and vague. Ideally I think the adjustable arm needs to be lower and more horizontal as it pulls up and back instead of just traveling back and forth particularly going into second gear. First gear cantilevers to the right and binds a bit. A little practice and some time for the transmission to break in as well as some minor adjustments to the shift linkage, shifting will improve a bit, but the design is far from ideal, IMO.

I had to change out the clutch master cylinder from a 3/4" to a 7/8" bore to get the clutch to engage properly. Another tweak I'll have to make is to shorten the brake pedal master cylinder pushrods to get the brake pedal to better align with the gas pedal under braking so I can heel toe more easily.

Overall, I am fairly happy so far and expect some massaging everything is in order to optimize the performance and driveability. Definitely loads of fun and don't have any regrets other than hoping I can get the remote shifter to work correctly without having to redesign it.
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  #14  
Old 10-17-2011, 07:50 AM
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http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...91da9b24538a0d

Final assembly of modified center console with battery cutoff switch and fire suppression switch. Transmission is beginning to break in and shifts are improving. I decided to nix the shifter boot ideal and show off the mechanical workings of the remote shifter instead.

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...91da9b24538a0d

I need to install the Tilton Brake Bias adjuster and make a final test run with the brake pedal height for best heel and toe braking before I can install the dash. Horn buttons are now functional along with quick disconnect cord to work with quick disconnect hub. If you look closely behind the steering wheel you can see the additional tubular support we added to further strengthen the brake pedal box assembly.
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:12 AM
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Final interior assembly. Planning a track day on Oct 29th at Thunderhill if the weather holds up.

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...2_itemId=13093

http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...2_itemId=13096
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  #16  
Old 10-21-2011, 06:07 PM
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Got my track days mixed up. Looks like the next one at Thunderhill is sometime in November not October. The track day on October 29 is Infineon Raceway/Sears Point, not exactly the place to learn a new vehicle considering the lack of runoff and walls. Awesome track though.

I'm planning on getting some video coverage as soon as I take it to the track. I don't want to broadcast video of the truck ripping it up on public roads at full boost so please be patient with me.

As far as the transmission goes, it's beginning to shift smoother and smoother as it continues to break in. The boost is instantaneous and engine is extremely responsive. Clutch pedal feel is very light for a 1000 hp capable clutch and can be a bit tricky at times with the lightened flywheel, but otherwise very streetable. Power is way more usable and rowing the gears is way more fun than the auto. I have no regrets ditching the automatic transmission so far.

I lowered the brake pedal a bit so heel and toe can be done more easily. Learning how to drive this new setup takes a bit of practice and should be 2nd nature soon.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2011, 11:13 PM
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http://highperformancetrucks.com/for...91da9b24538a0d

Forgot to add an image of the clutch master cylinder reservoir. I hate the red feed line too. I'll replace eventually with hard line.
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2011, 12:58 AM
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Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIeE7...layer_embedded

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  #19  
Old 10-30-2011, 07:51 PM
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After talking with the tuner and looking over the dyno tuning runs and time slips of both the auto versus manual runs we believe with a proper retune its still possible to run a 10.9 with the manual. The previous dyno tune was optimized for the power curve based on the automatic transmission and not the manual transmission. Although it was never our intent to rival the straight line performance of the automatic transmission in the 1/4 mile it would be interesting to see if there is an improvement after completing a conservative road racing dyno tuning session.
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